Collagen and Keratin Colloid Systems with a Multifunctional Effect for Cosmetic and Technical Applications

Abstract

Fibril proteins of leather, mainly collagen, keratin, glycoproteins, hetero-polysaccharides as hyaluronic acid are the most significant from the view of application in cosmetics. Collagen is the most widespread animal protein component of skin, tendon, bones and ligament. Keratin is the main component of hair, fur, feathers, hooves, horns and outer surface of the skin. Keratin is characterized by a high content of sulfur amino acid cysteine with a typical formation of disulfide bridges. Modified collagen is the basis for several types of test colloids, where agents for the regeneration of the skin, with a high degree of its hydration appear very promising. Originality of the research was ensured as well by the biopolymer keratin as natural anti-solar protection of skin. This knowledge is based on physiological presence of keratinocytes in leather and connected protective mechanism against the effects of the sun. The aim of this work was to develop liposome colloid systems based on biopolymers with a multifunctional effect and to obtain higher benefit of cosmetic preparations e.g. increased hydration, regeneration, protection against ultraviolet radiation, barrier protection of the skin etc. and to ensure microbiologic stability of these systems by the application of colloid silver. Samples of biopolymers, dispersions, emulsions and liposomes were evaluated by the determination of their basic qualitative parameters as viscosity, dry content matter, size of particles and stability. Hydrolysates of keratin lower surface tension from the value ã = 72.8 mN.m-1 to the value approx. ã = 55.5 mN.m-1, and therefore, research was oriented to the possibility of lower dosing of synthetic emulsifier at keeping of required stability of hydrogels and hydro-creams. Results of testing samples confirmed increased hydration of the skin and protection mainly against UVB radiation. Evaluation of disinfectant efficiency of prepared colloidal silver confirmed the bactericidal, fungicidal and sporocidal effect against a broad spectrum of bacteria, fungi and microbes.